McLanahan Equipment Receiving Checklist: 8 Things a Quality Inspector Checks Before Signing Off

I'm a quality compliance manager at a mineral processing equipment manufacturer. I review every sand screw and feeder breaker before it ships—roughly 200 units a year. This is the same checklist I give customers when a new machine lands on their site. It takes about an hour, and it has saved more than one plant from a long, painful startup.

If you've ordered a McLanahan sand screw, feeder breaker, or similar processing unit, this guide is for you. Quick note: I'm talking about McLanahan the equipment maker, not the people who show up in searches for "shawk and mclanahan pistol" or "dr mclanahan obgyn." If you're here for mining and aggregate equipment, you're in the right place.

McLanahan has been building processing equipment since 1835, so the design is solid. But even the best factory work can get damaged in transit, and a fast-moving production line can occasionally send a slightly different configuration than what you ordered. That's why receiving inspection matters.

Before the trailer leaves: 8 checks to run

The biggest mistake is treating receiving like a formality. Most people check the crate label, see that the right truck showed up, and sign. Then they find the problem after the machine is set in place, and everything gets more expensive. Use this checklist in order—it goes from "what causes the fastest, biggest headache" to "what causes the slow, grinding failure."

Step 1: Confirm the serial number and build options

Don't just check the crate label. Open the access panel and match the unit's nameplate to your purchase order. I've seen a crate with the right label on a machine with the wrong shaft length. In 2024, we had an order for two screw washers—one with manganese liners, one with AR steel liners. They looked identical from the outside. If the receiving crew hadn't opened the access port and checked the actual liners, the wrong machine would have gone to the wrong site.

Check the model number, the serial number, and any option codes on the nameplate. Compare those with the packing list and the bill of lading. If anything doesn't match, stop the install and call the manufacturer before the truck leaves.

Step 2: Look for the damage that doesn't show up in photos

A big dent is easy to spot. What you need to look for are the small things: hairline cracks around the discharge flange, a bent mounting tab, a coupling that's shifted a few millimeters. Put on a pair of gloves and run your hands along the welds. You'd be surprised what you can feel that a camera won't show.

On a sand screw, check the underside of the tub, especially around the bearing support brackets. On a feeder breaker, check the hinge pins on the breaker teeth and the anvil mounting area. If anything looks suspicious, take a photo and flag it on the delivery receipt before you sign. The driver may argue, but once you sign, the burden of proof shifts.

Step 3: Verify torque on critical fasteners

This sounds tedious, but do a sample. On a sand screw, check the shaft coupling bolts and the paddle bolts. On a feeder breaker, check the tooth mounting bolts. Pick six or eight bolts at random and hit them with a torque wrench. If more than one is below spec, the rest probably are too.

I remember a feeder breaker that went out a few years ago with a coupling bolt that was 15% under torque—nobody could see it, and it didn't look loose. But during startup, it let go and scored the shaft. That was a $3,000 repair plus two days of downtime. A torque wrench costs $100. Use it.

Step 4: Trace the grease lines (this is the one people ignore)

I'll say it directly: this is the step that gets skipped the most, and it kills bearings. Grease lines work loose during transport. A line that looks connected at the port can be pinched or disconnected at the bearing end. Unless you trace each one, you won't know.

Start at the grease inlet and follow every line to its terminal point on the bearing. Check for kinks, crushed tubes, and missing ferrules. Also check the routing: if a line runs against a sharp edge, it will wear through before your first scheduled service. Last year, I caught a crushed line that would have aired out the bearing on a brand new screw. The customer didn't see it until I pointed at it. Ten minutes of tracing saved them a bearing replacement.

Step 5: Measure the critical clearances

For a sand screw, the gap between the flight and the tub is what makes it wash correctly. Get a feeler gauge and check at three points along the screw. Compare those readings to the general arrangement drawing. The tolerance is usually ±1/16 inch, but don't quote me on that—verify against the drawing that came with your machine.

If the gap is off, it's much easier to fix before the unit is set in concrete than after. An out-of-spec gap means uneven wear on the shoes and flights, which leads to a performance complaint that's really a setup problem. For a feeder breaker, check the gap between the breaker teeth and the anvil. If it's too tight, you'll get metal-on-metal wear; too loose, and the breaker will jamb.

Step 6: Check electrical and hydraulic connections

On feeder breakers, hydraulic hoses are often disconnected for shipping. Don't reconnect them by memory—match the markings on the hoses to the ports on the machine. I once saw a machine run backwards because two limit switches had been reconnected in the wrong order. That's a dangerous way to find out.

Check every emergency stop before power-up. If the machine has a soft start, verify the rotation direction with a quick bump test before running under load. Also check that any safety guards are in place, even if they were removed for transport. This takes ten minutes and it keeps someone from losing a finger on day one.

Step 7: Inventory spare parts and manuals before you need them

Open every wooden crate and cardboard box. There are usually bolt bags, a tool kit, and a manual package, and they often end up buried under packing material. Count them against the packing list. If something's missing, report it immediately. Many parts can be shipped next-day, but only if you tell us before the crew is standing around with nothing to do.

Also check the serial number on the manual. It may sound trivial, but a manual with the wrong serial number can lead to the wrong torque specs or wrong part numbers. If the manual doesn't match, ask for a correct copy before you rely on it.

Step 8: Photograph everything and do a dry run

Take time-stamped photos of every side, including the bottom and the nameplate. You don't need a professional camera—a phone works. If a crack shows up during installation, those photos are the difference between a quick warranty claim and a dispute with the freight company.

Then, if the machine can run without material, do a short rotation test. Listen for scraping, check vibration, and confirm the drive doesn't overheat. This is the closest thing to a pre-flight check. It's not a full load test, but it catches most gross problems. Do it before you sign the final paperwork, not after.

Common mistakes I see at startup

Most buyers focus on the price of the machine and completely miss the cost of a three-day delay during commissioning. The question everyone asks is "is it under warranty?" The question they should ask is "how long until the part is in my hand?"

• Skipping the receiving inspection because "it's new and should be fine."
• Not tracing the grease lines until after a bearing fails.
• Signing the delivery receipt before documenting visible damage.
• Assuming the shipping company is responsible for hidden damage after you've signed off.

I still kick myself for the one that got away: a misaligned discharge flange I didn't catch because I was checking from the wrong angle. The customer found it on startup, we shipped a replacement, but they still lost two days. That one hurt. Now I always tell people to walk around the machine one extra time, look at it from a different angle, and ask one more question.

If something is wrong: when to pay for speed

Here's my honest opinion: if you find a problem and you have a deadline—an installation crew on site, a permit expiring, a season ending soon—pay for certainty. A $400 rush freight charge is worth it if it saves you a week of downtime. In March 2024, we had a customer pay $650 for next-day delivery of a seal kit. That seemed like a lot until you realized their crew was on day rate, and the machine was sitting on a pad waiting for one part.

This isn't about pushing expedited shipping because we want more money. It's about the math. A cheaper, slower option might arrive in three days. If your crew is idle, those three days can cost more than the part itself. The $650 part suddenly looks smart.

That said, don't pay for rush delivery before you've confirmed the part is actually in stock. Ask the service representative to check stock before you pay the expedite fee. Otherwise you're paying for speed that doesn't exist. And if the vendor promises a guaranteed arrival time but can't back it up, that's a red flag. The whole point of expediting is the certainty, not just the speed.

Final thought

This checklist is accurate as of early 2025, but specs and tolerances can change. Always verify against the drawings that ship with your machine. And if you're ever in doubt about a clearance or a connection, call McLanahan service before you break something. A ten-minute phone call is always cheaper than a replacement bearing.

I'm not a logistics expert, so I can't speak to carrier optimization or freight claims. What I can tell you from a quality perspective is this: an hour of receiving inspection is the cheapest insurance you'll ever buy. Use it.